THE PHOENIX
Uncle Pete's Hickory Ribs
Wicked-good ribs in Eastie
BY ROBERT NADEAU
Pete's barbecue is wood-smoked, but the flavor is subtler and less over-powering than what the technically awesome revivalists deliver. Most notably in the "Wicked Pork Ribs" ($6.95 for three ribs / $11 for a half of six / $17 for a full rack of 12), Pete's meat has a superlative juiciness and tenderness. Since it reportedly takes three days to make these ribs, and since three days in the smoker would produce a much more powerful smoke effect, I suspect marinating may be involved, or possibly brining. It's certainly not a dry rub. And it's certainly not the sauce, which seems to be glazed on at the end, and isn't much to begin with. The "sweet and tangy" version has a lot of tamarind, sort of like a homemade A-1 Sauce. The "hot and spicy" really isn't very hot, and it's a little sweet too. The table sauce is Texas Pete's (no relation but of course) a relatively mild pepper sauce like Frank's.
Beef Brisket ($6.95 on a bun / $10.95 for dinner) is sliced thin, but has the same balance of mild smoke and juiciness. Pulled pork ($6.95 / $10.95) has come the farthest from its original style, since it's more smoked and blended with a heavier, sweeter sauce than the classic Carolina pepper vinegar. It's almost beefy.
Pete's has quite a long menu for a barbecue joint, even serving appetizers. A bowl of chili ($3.95) is surprisingly authentic, having a very little of the sweet tomato flavor that usually separates Boston from San Antonio. Pete's chili isn't overly spicy, but tastes like chili - mostly meat with some beans and the onions and cheese already mixed in.
You get two side orders with the dinner (there're mostly $1.70 on their own) and it's hard to pick just two. (You also get a "sweet potato biscuit" which is quite sweet and frosted besides!) French fries are quite excellent - skin on, crispy, and full of potato flavor. Asian slaw is rough-cut cabbage and carrots, topped with a Thai-style peanut sauce (Pha Cucchiara was born in Thailand). The house salad is surprisingly large. Onion rings ($1.95 on their own) are remarkably good, thick cut and juicy. Barbecued baked beans again benefit from Pete's not over-flavoring the dish. And we didn't get to the regular cole slaw, rice pilaf, pasta or corn.
Southern fried chicken ($8.95) confirms the promise of the french fries and onion rings. Pete's hand on the fry basket is as sure as his eye on the smoker.
Service, from a multicultural staff mirrors the new Eastie, is just fine without any theartrics.
The room is all booths, with World War II poster that have taken on a new meaning, and a roll of paper towels is on every table. And this is what make Pete's authentic. People who say "wicked" all the time order the "wicked pork ribs" and obviously think they're "Wicked Good".
Reprinted from The Phoenix
Saturday, Jan 26 2002